September 2009 - The Amazing Ruta Maya

On the bus back to Osaka from Kansai Airport something struck me as odd. I looked around and instantly it hit me: the bus was silent. Now, it wasn’t the silence of the people that surprised me, as Latinos are also surprisingly quiet on buses. It was the music – salsa, reggaeton, norteño that was missing. Over the past 6 weeks I must have taken 50 buses (big, small & chicken), all of them blasting the same pirated cd music mix.

Yes, the past 6 weeks has been a whirlwind of everything latino, in which I was lucky enough to meet many old friends and discover the magic of america latina. The adventure both started and ended in Mexico City with an old Spanish friend some of you may remember (^-*). With a very loose schedule and the advice of other travellers, we trekked through 5 countries and wandered through in 20+ villages, towns and cities, big & small, near & far, modern & ancient.

We travelled a big loop:

Mexico-> Guatemala (south)-> El Salvador-> Honduras-> Guatemala (north)-> Belize-> Mexico

Traveling between countries and cities was part of the fun. We started our trip taking tourist buses – air-conditioned minivans filled with 8-12 tourists that run from one destination to another non-stop. Yawn! We soon discovered that taking the local chicken buses (up to 8 in a day) was much more fun. We would wait on the side of the road, flag down one of the old techno-coloured American school buses, climb in the back, listen to the loud latino beats with the wind in our faces from all the open windows and enjoy the countryside and conversations with the locals. We met many drivers who gave the US (where they worked 12-15 hour days) a chance, but decided to return to Central America where they could drive a bus and enjoy a carefree life. Inspiring! (But don’t worry mom, I’m not thinking about buying a bus... at least not yet!)

We took advantage of each and every day, enjoying the endless outdoor activities available in the region: we hiked up a live volcano with a river of flowing lava at the top, mountain biked through maize and coffee plantations, rode horses through Zapatista mountain areas to indigenous villages, visited ancient cities and climbed indigenous ruins, kayaked through mangrove forests, sailed the Caribbean Sea, and snorkelled with manatees, sharks, manta rays and sea turtles. Our outdoor fun was followed by serious hammock testing, as we tried out dozens of hammocks looking for the best place for a late afternoon siesta.

Despite the proximity, each country had its own flavour, its own history, its own people, and its own specialty.

Guatemala is the land of the avocado. It’s said that Guatemalans have ‘la panza verde’ (a green belly) from all the guacamole they eat. In the south, in Panajachel (‘Pana’) and Antigua, indigenous women proudly wear their village dress and speak in their native tongues. The buildings are bright and colourful: red, blue, green, orange, and yellow shops and homes are eye candy for any photographer. The multitude of mountains and volcanoes offer endless outdoor fun. Just make sure you hire a machete-bearing guide for guidance and protection (even if he’s half your size, it’ll make you feel better about unexpected mountain encounters). The north of ‘Guate’ has quite different topography: jungle villages that reside along the riverbanks of Rio Dulce bring in seafaring tourists and offer fantastic kayaking through the mangrove forests.
















El Salvador is simply beautiful. The people are relaxed, the beaches along the Pacific are black and Juayua found along the Ruta de las Flores is the most artistic and colourful town I’ve ever stayed in. The houses, doorways, telephone poles, and mailboxes are each painted in a unique way demonstrating the love of art and self-expression. Life is slow paced and simple: if the bus doesn’t come, just sit back and wait for the next one - it’ll be by in an hour or two. Eat a pupusa or two and your stomach will be full for hours. This is one country I wish we had more time to
discover.


Honduras is a hot topic in the news these days for the coup that ousted elected President Manuel Zelaya and the protests that have since followed. For this reason we decided to spend just a few days in Copan Ruinas, along the Guatemalan border. This quaint town was a gateway to the Mayan ruins most known for their detailed sculptures. I remember it though for its colorful streets and its kind people that were willing to sit and chat for hours. When things settle down, Honduras is a place that I will return to!


Belize was an impromptu decision, and a well made one at that. The salsa music in the buses is replaced by reggae, and Garifuna people (descendants from Africa) are just as relaxed as thelatinos. There’s a good reason Madonna wrote la Isla Bonita for San Pedro – the cayes (islands) of the coast of Belize are beautiful! With the world’s largest living barrier reef a sailboat ride away, Belize offers some of the world’s most diverse and rewarding scuba and snorkeling around. Within minutes of plunging into the water I found myself face to face with a large manatee. I’m not sure who was more curious about the other. Manta rays, giant sea turtles and nurse sharks soon followed. A few hours sailing along the coast, followed by a huge lobster bbq, and a night of stargazing from the hammock of our bright purple cabana made Caye Caulker the best beach getaway I’ve every experienced.
















Mexico is a huge country that offers an amazing variety of landscapes and lifestyles. Most people know Mexico for its saturated beaches in Cancun and Acapulco. But there’s much more to it than sand and tequila. Mexico is a country with large mountains, deep canyons, lush countryside, indigenous (Aztec, Maya, and more) culture, lucha libre (professional mexican wrestling), beautiful zocalos (town parks), many, many colourful towns... and zumba (yes, zumba is available everywhere!). It’s a country in which people open their hearts to you and help you whenever they can, especially the lovely Renteria family (gracias chicos!!!).










Unfortunately Mexico is also associated with corruption, crime and drugs. A part-time taxi driver explained to me that his full-time job was a bodyguard for a very well-off businessman who required 24-hour protection. As a well-known businessman he faced the risk of being taken hostage, most often a crime committed by people close to him (that know him and his schedule intimately). However, these crimes and problems generally are not a concern for visitors, especially if they follow common sense and don’t walk around alone at night, something I wouldn’t even do in Brampton these days.










In fact, we didn’t see any firsthand evidence of violence in any country that we visited. No matter where we went or how we got there, we were always treated with respect. I felt safe, even when travelling alone. Border patrol and security officers everywhere were pleasant and helpful. Bus drivers, restaurant owners, souvenir stall owners all helped guide me in the right direction.










This short time in Mexico and Central America has left me with a very warm, fuzzy feeling. It has also inspired me to discover more of america latina, very, very soon!










If you’ve ever thought about going to Central America my advice would be: GO! Have fun! And use your commonsense to keep safe, as you would anywhere in the world. You’ll be very happy you went!