“Anticipación!”Read the rapids, look out for rocks, watch the waves, paddle hard.
“Anticipación Laura, anticipación!”
Spot the turns, expect the bumps, and most of all watch for the surf that.... SPLASH!
Before I knew it I was upside down in glacial river whirlpool with a ducky (an inflatable kayak) right above my head. I pushed and pushed trying to flip my boat, but it wouldn’t budge. The precious air was escaping from my lungs and I couldn’t get away. I pushed with all my might, but my efforts were futile.
White water smashed into my face and stung my eyes. Instinct told me to plunge back down into the water and try to swim under the boat. Up looked like down and down looked like up. Suddenly, I bobbed up again meters away from the boat, and was able to gasp the marvelous, clean, fresh air. It only took a few seconds (though seemed like years) under water and the lesson Jorge had been trying to teach me – anticipación – finally sank in. Yes, anticipation: the importance of reading the signs around you to be prepared for anything you may encounter in your journey.
I survived my first class III rapids glowing from the adrenalin rush of kayaking down the stunning Rio Trancura in Southern Chile with Jorge and Diego, two young river kayak fanatics, as my guides. As I paddled to survive, they paddled to play. Their kayaks were like natural extensions of their bodies that helped them fly in and out of waves like dolphins. These guys, who were definitely more comfortable in the water than on land, taught me a lesson that I will never forget: anticipación is key for survival in Sudamérica. And that was only my first day in Southern Chile.
What I had expected to be just a quick night or two in Pucón soon turned into a week, and would have been much MUCH more had I arrived sooner. (Anticipation?) You see, Chile is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts: trekking, canyoning, paragliding, hydrospeed, kayaking, ducky, bungee, horseback riding... the list goes on and on. And, I couldn’t wait to play a little more.
With my shoulders stiff from the previous day’s paddle, I soon found myself on the back of Hidalgo, a gorgeous dark brown Chilean horse who was to become my new best friend for the next four days.
I had planned a simple half-day horseback ride through the countryside. However, within no time I was dressed in leather half chaps and a sombrero, following Luis, a macho Chilean huaso (cowboy), through lush forests, up steep mountains, around live volcanoes, over lava covered valleys, across snowy peaks, and finally camping around the gorgeous Laguna Azul. That half-day tourist ride quickly turned into a four-day all-terrain adventure trek. Anticipation?
As we trekked through the Chilean cordillera into Argentina I used my newly acquired sixth sense to help me survive the harsh topography on my stallion.
Hidalgo, a new horse at Antilco Ranch that had yet to be truly broken in, was a stubborn young guy. He was a lovely horse to look at, with strongly defined muscles and powerful legs. He also had quirks of his own, lots of them. He didn’t exactly care what his rider commanded him to do and enjoyed a good roll around in the sand or snow with or (if you were able to jump off quickly enough) without his rider. He would like to trot (or even break into a gallop) down little valleys to pick up speed on the way back up the other side. In short, he wasn’t anyone’s favorite horse.
However, one word kept flashing in my mind: yes, you know it now, anticipation. Read the landscape and anticipate Hidalgo’s moves. Lots of lush green grass? Hold the reins a little tighter as he’s going down for a bite. Small valley ahead? Make sure to hold your hat. Crossing a little creek? Get ready for a big jump. See a snowy patch? Don’t let his face drop or you’ll soon be covered in snow too.
For four days I learned his quirks, and for four days he learned mine. Our last morning together, as I groomed and saddled Hidalgo up for the ride back to the ranch, I swear he gave me a kiss on the cheek. Before we headed out on the ride, the ranch owner, Matthias, had warned the girls not to fall in love (with our handsome huaso guide Luis). I shrugged off his warning. Yet, little did I know that I too would fall in love and there was nothing I could do about it.
Within that short week in Southern Chile my heart too was taken captive; Hidalgo, the breathing taking landscape and incredible Chilean hospitality made such an incredible impression on me that I know I’ll be back there soon. If only I had anticipated that!
During my seven weeks in South America I had the opportunity to experience Uruguay, Argentina, Paraguay and Chile.Traveling on my own allowed me to experience South America at South American speed and with an open South American mind.
Carnaval in Gualeguaychu? Why not? A few days at Iguazú Falls? Porque no? Couchsurfing in Paraguay? Bring it on! South America has so much to offer: incredible landscapes, generous and welcoming people, countless delicious local dishes, wines of all kinds, colorful cities and a nightlife like no other.
Oh, Sudamérica, yo si te amo. Nos vemos pronto!
